In Category: ‘social commentary’

February 21, 2012 Sore Thumb

I came to New York with nothing but a camera.

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I grew up here. I’m here now so when I disappear for another 10 years I will have all the little pieces to remember them by.

But it’s been so long that I don’t even know the place anymore. It’s not a part of me. The ghost hand, the grafted soul. Time and the 9-5 have wiped most of it away.

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It’s Thursday. I’m standing in midtown after morning rush hour and it’s 20 degrees colder than I’d like. More than just the January wind because, after all, everyone laughs and says I’m just in time for the fantastic weather.

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The streets are no less crowded than I remember. I notice their crooked noses, their razor-sharp suits, the lines in their faces that says they’re late for a meeting. The iPhones, the distracted air, the shiny shoes, the lack of color. See the whites of their eyes a second before you knock shoulders.

The city vibrates. From desperate sidewalk salesmen to the mid-morning drugstore run, a taxi jam, the thunder of delivery trucks. Or maybe it’s the gigantic rotating pillar that keeps Manhattan afloat. Everyone has a purpose, everyone is headed somewhere.

Except me. It marks me a stranger as keenly as the red sash around my neck.

I try to catch what I see in my hands, but they’re too quick. I’m 20 years too late on the corner and fumbling to chase them with my little metal box. Wait! Wait, you’re pretty! I don’t say that out loud (that’s weird), but I watch with my two glass eyes, thinking they won’t notice me.

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kiev 3 XL In Ukraine, Elevators Take YOU!

In Kiev, you lose the rules.

Rule one: Learn to stare.

Rule two: Learn to smoke.

Where does this fit into the American mind? In Ukraine I was ready to go home. In a dizzying world where nothing makes sense, there are no helping hands and the cheat sheets are 6,000 miles away.

Rule three: Shop underground.

Rule four: Question everyone thing.

The best I could do was lift my groggy head and bite back the impulse to scream. I was already marked an outlier, scrawling strange words in my book, wheezing from the endless clouds of tobacco stink. I was the one throwing the TP in the loo, smiling at strangers a little too openly, the only woman not risking everything between hip and sole.

kiev 1 400x600 In Ukraine, Elevators Take YOU!kiev 2 415x600 In Ukraine, Elevators Take YOU!

Rule five: Get it in writing.

Rule six: It’s not a movie.

The countdown ticked away one hryvnia at a time, our hours measured by when we would arrive in the welcome familiarty of Frankfurt am Main. One more street. One more meal. One more con to avoid.

My only defense was the Ukrainian stare, the one that proved effective in warding off one stony look at a time. It got us from the government hotel where we slept beside the gurgle and croon of a thousand horny pigeons. It didn’t save us from the sick industrial fog that bridged the city and the concrete megaplexes that striped the road in cold shadows.

We clung together in this ocean of strange, trying desperately to sync and swim. If these people are as proud of their heritage as they say, it manifests itself in ways not familiar to me.

Heart of stone. Gaze of glass. And everything, everything so far away.

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e128ade6c862f838758614820c1d1ea6 Beyond the White Picket Fence

Photo by Charlie Crane, from Welcome to Pyongyang

Growing up, SAT scores and mathematics were higher on my priority list than genealogy. I knew little about my family beyond my parents’ own lives, that they were a city girl and a country boy brought together in Seoul’s most prestigious university.

Now that I am older and my extended family has begun gathering more regularly, I’m hearing stories about Korea that seem straight out of a movie. It’s hard to believe I am of their blood.

My mother recently shared a very dark story about her uncle, my grandfather’s brother. An aspiring political rebel from Seoul, he ascended to a position of power in the medical community in Pyongyang after World War II. Through the turmoil of the following decade (and a change in regime), he suddenly vanished without a trace.

This is a typical tale coming out of North Korea, but inexcusable for any country with an ounce of respect for human rights. Should we be surprised?

It’s bone-chilling knowing that if it were not for this, I’d have a bigger family.

Moreover, my mother visited him with some regularity in the years before the division was final. She could have been trapped there; I could be witnessing the DPRK first-hand now, been executed at birth, or have never been born at all.

You can sit around and mull over all the philosophical land mines (pun intended) in the “What if?” situations, but the simple fact is this: It’s real. It’s all painfully real and I’ve never been more aware that there’s a big, nasty world out there. I only have the most distant idea of what it’s like to have family stuck in the most treacherous country in the world, but this vague ghost of terror is so much more than I already want to feel.

This is how I know that no matter what opportunities there are to travel beyond that border and take photos of a lifetime, it can never happen for me.

Perhaps my parents did the right thing not scaring their little girl with stories that don’t have happy endings.

Keeble & Shuchat in Palo Alto, CA has bar none the worst service I’ve ever experienced in a brick-and-mortar shop. Here’s how they’ve earned their way onto my Shit List.

You Are What You Say

It didn’t happen overnight. I’ve been going there since before I’ve even lived in California – which is my way of pointing out I’ve been giving this place more chances than anyone should ever give someone. We’re talking more than three years.

I may be a chump, but I’m no n00b to customer service. I’ve been working (in customer! service!) since 2008 for a company who is world-famous for their quality of personalized, human support. I have experience with all kinds of people, every minute degree of annoyance and I can say with some authority that how you treat your customers reflects on your business.

Someone is always watching. Someone is always talking. Even if you’re having a terrible day. Even if someone stole your sandwich so you have low blood sugar that makes you want to bring that 1DmIV down on someone’s head. Even if your customers ask irrelevant questions or are smoking crack. Even if they ask you, ”What gives?”

I’m not sorry for much in this life, but I am sorry that so many awful companies succeed in this day and age. K & S, as an example, has a corner on the pro film processing market in the SF Bay Area. So many of us keep going back again and again and again…

Oh No She Dit’n't

Since day one I have been unhappy with them and each memory orbits around a single word: DISRESPECT. I’ve gone in there regularly over the last 2.5 years to browse and buy because they are the most convenient camera supply and film service shop. Plus, as a rule I prefer to patronize independently-owned local businesses. Every time I walk through the doors accompanied by my husband or a male friend, all help is directed at my companion, never at me, even when I’m the one asking the freaking questions. Chauvinistic sonofabitches.

I hate pulling the gender card, but seriously. Over the years they’ve thrown me a big fat bone to pick.

But whenever I ask for help, my presence is a huge imposition to them. Which is a real feat considering that half the time there’s twice as many employees standing around than customers in the store. (Wow. Must be nice.)

A Moment on the Lips. A Lifetime’s Loss in Tips.

I’ve recently met the most hostile sales guy ever permitted to set foot in a store in retail history. I made it clear that:

1. I know that there is one other person in front of me that I have to wait for, first.

2. I don’t care, I am not in a rush and I understand. (I do this by pulling out my iPhone and leisurely checking my mail.)

3. I have a simple request, have been here before, I know the routine and exactly what I want. I AM AN EASY CUSTOMER. I’m the kind of customer you get your interns to help.

But hey, that’s not good enough. I’m the scum of the earth to shoot film, to trust my priceless memories to this shop who can do what I cannot do myself. How dare I ask for them to process my film for me? How dare I try to shortcut the process by saying, “Develop only, and could I have the negatives cut and sleeved, please?”

(Another point: Seriously, I’ve been coming to you almost every week for 7 months. Could you not have your customer’s contact information on file so I don’t have to spell out my name and my phone number every time? Also, a smile would be nice, or some form of recognition that would make hauling my ass up there a little more welcoming. This is a lot to ask, I know, but I’m the Asian girl with dreadlocks and red glasses. Though it’s moot because you’ll never see me again.)

I felt something snap inside of me which may have been my patience, but was most likely my blinders finally giving way under the weight of a thousand fake smiles. I cut the crap, got the hell out of there and will never go back. It’s a shame that I can’t patronize a local business with something that I am passionate about, but I think it’s a far greater shame to be repeatedly treated this way by a business and still give them your money. I’m excruciatingly, horribly embarrassed about that. I feel dirty, like I’ve escaped an abusive relationship. Which, in a way, I have.

I’ll Take My Money and Run

It’s back to mail-order processing for me, or I’ll go up to the city. C’est la vie, but film has always been a delayed gratification sort of deal. They very clearly do not need or want my business.

The only thing I can thank K & S for is getting me fired up enough to actually update my blog. That’s worth something.

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NOTE: The comments didn’t make it when I moved this blog over from its old location. They’re all here.

February 1, 2011 Lesson, Learned

Two weeks are over! Two weeks of bachelorettism, independence and climbing on chairs to reach things on the top shelf. What have I learned?

1. It’s my party and I’ll cry if I want to. Somewhere in the last few years, I have stopped caring about looking foolish in front of strangers. When I was alone in the past – even for a day – I would be too shy and bumbling to go out and do things on my own. The idea of going to a museum or a concert was unthinkable. I would know that the evening would end up with me hiding in a corner, trying not to be noticed and hustling home as soon as possible.

Not any more. I did things because I’ve long wanted to do them, because they were interesting, or simply because I felt like it. Isn’t that the best part of being a grownup? If I want to watch 4 hours of British dramas while eating kale chips, dammit I will.

2. I’m no longer a sweet piece of ass. I knew this time was coming, but I find the irony of this almost too much to bear. When I was in college and for the years afterwards, I could not walk down the street or go into a store alone without some creepy man leering at me. It was skeevy but in some twisted level, nice to know that I had some appeal.

These last two weeks I’ve been left alone, and the male strangers I have met have actually been less friendly to me than the female ones. What’s that all about, Bay Area?

3. You suck by default. If I was in a position to help out a stranger, I would. And they would automatically be taken aback by the gesture or comment. Since I don’t normally do this I don’t know if it’s typical for people to react in that suspicious, shocked way that clearly screams “Why are you talking to me? Are you selling something?” But it’s a shame. What happened to good, old-fashioned samaritanism? Maybe we’ll move to Europe where (I hope) such things still burn strong.

4. They’re legal for a reason. In trying to better my health I made a point to cut out both caffeine and alcohol these two weeks. Alcohol: I can either take it or leave it but it looks like caffeine is essential. A fortnight of having all my faculties and I’ve learned that my faculties don’t do so well on their own. It’s nice not to be kept awake with heart palpitations but even after the cleanse I have trouble focusing on any tasks at hand. Yay, coffee!

5. Life is awesome. There’s so much to see and do, no matter where you are. I’m fortunate to live in the SF Bay Area where there’s no end to beautiful things, great shops, and amazing cultural opportunities. I feel that although I was busy every day (and certainly each weekend) that I barely scraped the surface of what it has to offer. I even met new people and made new friends, some of them folks who have been right in front of me the whole time.

Of course I would prefer to have my partner at home with me, but his temporary travels may well have been one of the best things to have happened in a very long time. Onward!

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Sunday afternoon. Gotta work, gotta run. But what’s this here? Sort through the stack, find one name on three postcards. 1925! Five dollars apiece? You’re kidding! Alright, here you go.

And there begins my fascination with Miss Eleanor Levons. A woman, who, somehow, was traveling through the roads through the early part of the last century. A woman who inspired me because of her beautiful handwriting, her simple language and all-too-human fallacies and grammatical errors. And her mystery.

4th day
Pittsburg , Pa.
7/23/25

Dear Edna,

Reached Pittsburgh yesterday after-noon. The people we are stopping with took us all over town and have treated us wonderful. We visited Heinz’s this after-noon, we tasted 7 of the 57 varieties. We are leaving to-morrow morning for Cleveland. We expect to be in Chicago about Monday. We are stopping at some relatives of Billie’s and expect to be there for a few days. If you should want to write to me the address is

℅ Ms C. Skwersky
1315 Avero Ave
Chicago, IL

Hope you have a nice vacation. I can’t realize yet that I’m on the way.

Remember me to all the girls + your mother + sister.

With love,
Eleanor

How can one possibly discover the story of one woman, who made little name for herself, was just like you or me? I do not know if she is young or old, although her correspondent was implied to be of school-age. Perhaps she was, too, writing to a best friend separated by a move:

New Orleans, La
Oct. 5, 1925

Dear Edna,

Arrived in New Orleans yesterday after-noon (Sunday) and the first thing we did after getting settled at the “Y” was to go for a swim in Lake Pontchartran, it was more like taking a turkish bath than anything else as the water was so awfully warm, however, we got a little exercise anyway. You know the town is one foot below Sea Level and it is just roasting hot here. We both got up early this A.M. and rushed down to the P.O. It certainly was a pleasure to receive your letter. It took us over an hour to read all of our mail having accumulated for 3 weeks. You can imagine.

Have been all over town. Went down to the French Market where they have loads of fish and fruit. also visited the St. Louis Cathedral, which was very interesting. One of the courts were full of bullet holes where they use to shoot the prisoners Saw loads of French + Spanish building, which were quite a sight.

We are leaving town to-morrow. Have to cross on five ferries before we get to Mobile, Ala the first one is over 23 miles long. Hope you’ll excuse this postal it is so hot that I haven’t any ambition to sit down and write letters, guess you’ll understand how it is.

We expect to go to see “Shore Leave” to-night Have been taking baths every chance we get to get cooled off. Hope you are well and everything yourself. Guess you are all signed up for school.

With loads of love,
Eleanor

P.S. Remember me to all.

P.S. Will be looking forward to hearing from you in Miami. Did you get my other postals? Hope you can make them out.

Postage was pre-printed one cent. Jefferson was the stamp. He was the relatively new guy.

I looked up Shore Leave, which debuted on September 6, 1925. Guess it was a real riot back in the day of flappers and bob cuts.

Tampa, Fla.
Oct. 10,1925

Dear Edna,

This sure is an idea spot to spend the winter. Was to St. Petersburg yesterday and had a dandy swim in the Gulf. It seems as though all New York is down here by the number of cars we have seen. Had a ride all the way from Mobile, Ala. to Tampa in a nice big Pierce Arrow. We are leaving here this A.M. for Miami hope will be able to get another good car that is going straight through. Wish you were along, anyway I hope you are enjoying yourself in the city. Remember me to all.

With loads of love
Eleanor

Her Chicago address bore no secrets in Google. Street View showed a stark, sun-battered suburban neighborhood, the next house shuttered with planks. I wondered, very briefly, if writing a letter to Ms Skwersky’s current resident would be fruitful, or failure.

Edna. Perhaps Edna had the answer? No luck. Searching for her address (and a few other searches for architectural history) proved that New York Presbyterian Hospital built a new medical school on her block, with Cornell, two years after the postcards were sent.

Was Edna old enough to feel uprooted? Or perhaps she was a boarding-school girl with no connections at all to the circumstances that forced her aside?

History reveals nothing about them, and they have undoubtedly long since passed away. Their names are not unique, and neither are their stories. But I will always remember them, for Eleanor’s words paint pictures in my mind. Her looping, methodical letters anticipate the beginnings of a modern change.

I will never know more than I already imagine about these girls, but I will always believe that throughout the years, we should laugh and love our friends near and far.

With loads of love,
S

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February 21, 2010 Excelsior

The ocean is a two-faced entity. Foremost, a horrifying white maw, endless thunder and roars, a constant reminder that Man is Feeble. Likewise it is the carpet of diamonds, draping itself in sunlight and the serpentine moon. The ocean births silky gold sand, fabulous creatures and furnishes pelicans with a playground of joy.

It is my nemesis. It presents psychological challenges unlike any other, testing my ethos and my abilities to choose. It takes from me, thieving the familiar and turning traitor those I love.

Once again I am surrounded by the sea: taunting, reaching, malicious intent. At the utmost the edge of the world it corners me to face all fears.

Who will I be? As the days pass I sit and stare over the water, breathe in its briny breath and feel the rattling vibrations in my bones. While I no longer have the ability to capture the light that I see, the water’s cruel lesson dictates that there are many ways to craft one’s art. If not with pictures, then with words.

A test, a challenge and worthy cause. All things happen for a reason. I know this. I will grow.

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November 27, 2009 Time Traveler

Johnny was waiting by the park.

He’d already pushed the dead leaves into neat piles on the sidewalk, resting against the rake under the trees. I could tell he needed to talk. The sun sent dapples of light across the ground, twinkling over our heads as the wind blew the shadows. He looked ready for something, but I wasn’t sure what. As I approached he looked at my dog.

“So, are you the owner? The walker? The roommate?” He sees a lot of folks like me, I guess.

It wasn’t a bad one as far as opening lines go. I planted my feet and smiled.

Johnny was easy to talk with. His weathered face shone grandfatherly and kind, and his greying curls reminded me of someone I knew.

With his voice he painted pictures for me. The houses around us faded away, replaced by a quieter time of dignity and grace. Suddenly we were in the old San Francisco with few structures. Rainbow Edwardians were no longer the magpie dens of slick millionaires. The painted ladies not jostled with bungalows like slatterns on the Muni. Rich green fields, slopes bursting with trees, and we were breathing the wind from the Bay. This was the San Francisco of his grandfather’s time.

I’ll never know if his stories were true but I was swept clean away by his message. His roots are etched deep into the hills as firmly as chaparral in the sunny south. He told me many things, not only the local histories of the Upper Market but of his own journey to Vietnam and, now, to Reno and back.

We all have a tale to tell, but truth or delusion, it matters little. They are real to those who listen. They are real enough to make unforgettable mornings of perfect strangers.

Johnny didn’t need anything from me but a patient ear. I got the better end of the deal, by far.

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July 25, 2009 Magic

Last night, I went out for some curry.
and found myself in an alley

surrounded by color and
the smells of piss and beer

Following music into a shed
where a line of people

and one scrappy dog
waited behind the garage

She offered me blue jello shots
while curry simmered on a camping stove

“I’m a therapist” said our chef and
David’s shoes winked in the headlamp light

Up on the roof we ate
and talked with strangers

I don’t know these people at all but
at the end of the meal

I left my pen behind.

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March 31, 2009 The Dichotomy

San Francisco is one of the most stylish, creative cities I have ever visited. I realized the other day that part of it has to do with our neighborhood and the other part may be related to the neighborhoods in which we hang out. But hands-down there’s really no comparison at all between what I see people wearing on the streets here and on the streets in, well, Catonsville, MD.

People here (especially in the Castro) are so very friendly, too. I mean, as far as major cities go, San Fran strangers are almost as nice as Europeans are (not including the French, sorry Paris), and will smile and be reasonably open to making friendly comments to strangers on the street.

In Maryland I used to get this, too, but Baltimore is known to be the Biggest Small Town Ever ™ and Catonsville is just a tiny little Mayberry of it’s own, unchanging neighborly goodness for decades. I’d always get “Awesome hair!” or “Where did you get those boots?” or “Nice jacket!”

In San Francisco though, I hear:

“I love your dog!”

….. What??

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That’s right. I get more compliments on my dog in this city over the last 3.5 weeks than other compliments I’ve gotten, total, in the last 11 years in MD. While I would love to be as fashionable and creative as the other residents here, oh, who am I kidding?

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I know I have a pretty awesome dog. He’s fun-sized, but not too small. He’s friendly and outgoing and loves to wag his tail and sniff hello to the ladies – and certain gents. He’s always the quickest one at the dog park and has cute floppy ears and serenades fire trucks. Not to mention the little paintbrush propeller-tail that won my heart over 6 years ago at the SPCA.

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Oh well. If you can’t compete with ‘em, flaunt what you got. You could have a heck of a lot worse than a Zachary trotting by your side.

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